The most iconic image of Moldova is the breathtaking church perched atop the edge of a steep ridge overlooking a river directly below.
Although tourism in general is underwhelming in this small Eastern European country, Orheiul Vechi (translated as Old Orhei) is one destination you won’t want to miss.
Location
If you’re coming from Chisinau, getting to Orheiul Vechi is easy. About an hour’s drive on good roads will take you from the capital city to the country’s best-known tourist destination.
Take the M2 north out of Chisinau for about half an hour or about 35 km. There, you’ll take a right to turn onto R23 which you will follow for 22 km through small villages and twists and turns. R23 is a significantly more minor road than the M2, and more characteristic of roads in Moldova in general.
You should now see signs for Orheiul Vechi Complex, guiding you to turn onto G73. Follow this to the tourist information and entrance gate. Here you can get maps and advice, and pay in advance for parking and your entrance fee.
On your way to Orheiul Vechi, you’ll pass an excellent little bakery called Marcu. You’ll definitely want to stop here to pick up lunch or a snack on the way, if only to admire the unique decor and ambiance. The food is extraordinary, and the design style is eclectic but classy.
My favorite part is that they totally get what kids need. And the cherry poppy seed tart was scrumptious.
Cost/Entrance
The area around Orheiul Vechi is unique in that it is in the center of a busy, really-lived-in village. This being the case, it’s easy to drive past the entrance gate without being stopped, or really without even noticing it.
If you’re going into the village to spend some time at a guest house, you don’t need to pay an entrance fee.
But if you plan to sightsee in the area, the expectation is that you pay the entrance fees. Tickets can be purchased at a number of tourist information booths on site.
If you’re parking at the main parking lots for the historic site or at the museum, you should also pay for parking. If you’re staying at a guest house, parking is available at your accommodation.
Fees are quite affordable and go toward maintaining the historic site.
The entrance fee is 10 lei per person, or 5 lei for students or retirees. Preschool and younger kids get in free.
Parking is 10 lei per car or 30 lei per van.
The parking lot by the Archeology Museum is a great place to launch your day. The restrooms are clean, a nice picnic area is available, and a beautiful swing and play area are a great place to reward the kids after a long ride in the car.
How long should I spend at Orheiul Vechi?
You can get a great overview of the highlights of Orheiul Vechi with a half-day visit there. Or, if you really want to dig deeper and get off the beaten track, you could easily linger for two or more days.
I’ll first mention the main items you absolutely must see on a day trip to Orhei; then, I’ll give a few insider tips for things to see and do if you’d like to spend a bit longer in the area.
Must-see stops at Orheiul Vechi
1. Monastery of the Birth of Virgin Mary
Orhei is iconic primarily because of the dramatic location of the church perched on the top of a ridge with steep drops on either side. These pictures most likely captured your imagination and made you want to visit here in the first place.
So, obviously, you absolutely must make the journey to the summit to check out the beautiful Orthodox church for yourself.
The best way to get the full experience of the stunning views and see the church slowly revealed before you is to hike up along the ridge line from the parking area (by the museums) next to the river.
Cross the bridge toward the village of Butuceni, and you’ll see the entrance to the trail on the left.
The path is easy to follow and smoothly paved for at least half of the ascent. The rest of it is gravely and a bit rutted, but still easy enough to traverse. It’s a bit less than a mile of gradual climb, with a few places along the way slightly steeper.
Our crew of five kids aged 2-10 had no trouble making the trek and had plenty of energy left for exploring once we got to the top.
You’ll pass the entrance to the cave monastery on the way up. You can stop there on the way up, or come back for a look on your way back down.
Once you reach the church, you’ll enter through a picturesque tree-lined path leading up to the gates. The courtyard is beautifully manicured, with nooks and crannies everywhere filled with flowers and greenery.
Enter the sanctuary up the stone steps directly in front of you to view the beautiful orthodox icon-style paintings covering the interior of the church.
Tip: Men should wear long pants and ladies a head covering as a sign of respect when entering the monastery.
Be sure to poke around the rest of the grounds to see the pigeon house (our kids’ favorite of the whole day) and visit the gift shop.
2. Cave Monastery (Peştera)
When I first heard about the Monastery at Orheiul Vechi, I assumed it just meant the church on the top of the cliff, you know, the one in all the pictures.
There is actually more than one monastery here, and most of them are older than the church. There are monasteries located in several caves throughout the stone cliffs themselves.
The main section of caves, at least the one that most tourists see, is located about 3/4 of the way up the ridge line if you’re hiking up from the bridge by the river.
A stone entrance way opens to steps descending into the side of the cliff. Follow these steps down to access the monastery below.
It’s not just a historic tourist attraction, either. The caves hold a functioning monastic chapel where the faithful can light candles and say prayers, and services are held periodically.
A side tunnel will lead to the currently unused sections of the cave.
If you pass directly past the chapel inside the cave, you will reach a doorway leading out onto a ledge on the cliff face overhanging the river below.
I was very nervous to go out onto this ledge with the little kids along, but we crept out, hugging the stone face, and sat down with backs to the wall to admire the view.
Somewhere in there is a close-call story about dropping a camera. It almost fell through a hole to the river below, but thankfully stayed right on the edge where it could be retrieved. Whew!
3. Village
The village at Orheiul Vechi is notable for consisting primarily of wood-construction or stone traditional houses. People live and work in these houses and farms as they have for centuries, and as indeed, they continue to do throughout much of rural Moldova.
The main difference in Orheiul Vechi, as compared with most Moldovan villages, is that many of the homes have become guest houses offering food and accommodations.
Not only can you walk through the village taking in the sights of a historic way of life still being lived out, but you can also join in for a meal or an overnight stay for a fuller experience.
You can find a list of available guest houses on the Orhei tourism webpage.
If you’re staying in the village or simply want a shorter hike up to the top of the ridge, you can park in the heart of the village and climb up a steep stairway to reach the church and the monastery.
Lesser-known places to explore
The two monasteries mentioned above are just scratching the surface of the historical sites to visit in the vicinity.
Cave Monastery of the Burgrave Mășcăuți-Albu
In particular, two other lesser-known cave monasteries are nearby. One, the Cave Monastery of the Burgrave Mășcăuți-Albu, is visible from below but is currently closed to tourists. The monastery was mostly destroyed during several earthquakes in the region, making it dangerous and inaccessible.
Although you can’t enter the Cave Monastery of the Burgrave Mășcăuți-Albu, you can see it from the village of Butuceni, and ponder the lives of the monks and hermits who inhabited it from the 15th to 18th centuries.
The Hermitage of the Governor Bosie
There is, however, another cave monastery that you can visit. The Hermitage of the Governor Bosie is just a bit father down the river valley. However, to access the trail to reach the caves, you need to start in the village of Trebujeni and follow the curve of the river around toward Butuceni.
Access to the Hermitage of the Governor Bosie is possible, but because of the elevation, be sure to exercise caution. It may not be the best place to take young children due to the risk of falling.
Archeological Sites
Archeological excavations at Old Orhei have revealed numerous remains of settlements and buildings from various periods throughout history.
One of these excavations includes a Medieval Mosque and Caravanserai dating from the Mongol domination between 1350-1365. Dating from the same period is the Medieval Citadel, which would have been the home of the Mongol ruler during that time.
Another excavation from approximately the same period and civilization is the Tatar Baths. These remains are clearly visible as you enter the Orhei Reserve. For closer inspection, follow the Core of the Reserve Hiking Trail.
Going back even deeper into history, you can find remains of a circular-type cult construction presumably used as an astronomical observatory and calendar. It was built by the Geto-Dacian civilization dating back to the 3rd and 4th centuries BC. Also from this time period are the remains of Getae Fortifications.
The Church of the Holy Nativity on the top of the ridge is actually located inside part of these fortification remains. You can see existing remains just a few hundred meters further up the ridge. The Geto-Dacian Sanctuary remains are here as well.
Other Activities
The Historical and Natural Reserve at Orhei is an outdoor enthusiast’s playground. There are tons of activities to try out, with some of them needing just a bit of advance planning.
For example, you can just roll up and get out to start a hike on the kilometers of marked trails. Or bring along your bikes and explore. If you don’t want to pack along your bike, you can rent bikes from many of the guest houses in the village.
Other activities such as kayaking, mountaineering or rock climbing, cooking classes, music and dance performances, or even paragliding are available through local hosts in the area. For these, you need to make reservations in advance.
Find out how to make arrangements for these activities here.
